Disko Fever

Tier: Brock Lafferty

HOOK: Tiemco TMC 8089 or equivalent, sizes 2, 6, 10. Also, wide-gape stinger hooks like the Mustad 37187 or the Daiichi 2720.
THREAD : Color to match foam disks, 3/0 for larger flies, 6/0 for smaller flies.
TAIL : Marabou and flash to match or contrast the disks.
COLLAR : Large hackle feather to match or contrast body. Also, I sometimes use the fuzzy fibers at the base of the hackle stem to add a little contrast.
BODY : Closed cell foam disks, cut by brass or copper tubing that is sharpened, in sizes 1/4" to 1/2", though larger or smaller sizes can be used. Also, expended brass from a .38 caliber all the way up to a 12 gauge shell can be used.

NOTE : On size 6 hooks, I use 1/2-inch disks above the hook shank, and 3/8-inch disks below. On size 10, 3/8-inch on top, and 1/4 on the bottom.


INSTRUCTIONS

1. Lay down a good base of thread.

2. Tie in marabou. Then tie flash on both sides of the marabou and a few strands on top of the marabou.

3. Tie in fuzzy fibers if wanted. Then tie in hackle and wrap 4 or 5 times so that a nice collar is created.

4. If you want to, now is the time to add some rubber legs. Now comes the fun part. Turn the hook over, and grab one of the smaller disks. On this pattern, you tie from the back, towards the eye of the hook. Place it so that the collar is pushed backwards a bit. Make a soft wrap of thread around the disk and the hook shank. Try to catch about one-fourth of the disk. Make another soft wrap, using only enough pressure to make a tiny dent in the foam. Tighten the first two wraps and make a third wrap with plenty of tension. Make sure the disk doesn’t twist out of place. Finish securing the disk with several more tight wraps. Check the disk's alignment, and proceed to the next one.

5. Turn the hook back over again so that the point of the hook is below the shank. Take one of the larger disks, and attach it the same way as the smaller disk.

6. Keep repeating steps 4 and 5 till you have 4 on top and 4 on the bottom. After you reach 4 above and below the shank, whip finish, and cut the thread. Seal the whip-finish with cement.

7. Apply a drop of superglue (CA adhesive) between each pair of disks on the bottom of the fly. Carefully press the disks together to help the glue grab the foam.

8. Glue the upper disks to one another. Starting at the rear, put a drop of superglue on the face of each disk, and then press the next disk against it.

9. If you want to, you can glue on some eyes. Hollow doll's eyes, prismatic Mylar eyes, and three-dimensional plastic eyes are all suitable.

OPTIONS ON THE FLY : A Disko Sliding Minnow can also be created. It functions as a top water streamer. Tie one by attaching the tail (two clumps of hair sandwiching some flash material) at the middle of the shank, making a couple of wraps of Estaz or another plastic chenille, and then building the head with four foam disks. Eyes glued to the last disk complete the fly.

You can make a Disko Popper in reverse, starting at the eye of the hook and working back to the bend, and beginning with a disk on top of the shank. After attaching all the disks, tie in the tail, and then wrap the collar, tying off the thread at the rear of the body. Superglue the disks together from front to back.

Good color combos are: black top with orange belly, black top with chartreuse belly, all white, all black, chartreuse top with white belly. Also, you can alternate colors such as yellow, green, orange, and white on the same fly, producing a banded or striped effect. But generally, simple colors work the best.

CREDITS : I originally found this pattern in the Winter 1999 issue of "Fly Tyer" magazine.  C. Boyd Pfeiffer wrote the article. Blane Chocklett originally created the pattern. He runs the Blue Ridge Fly Fishers shop and guide service in Roanoke, Virginia.