Note:
Check out the Ugly Fly Instructions to tie this fly
(Bottom of this page).
Ed's
Note: Indio Coq de Leon is as rare as hen teeth. You should
use the most glossy and stiff traditional hackle as possible. It may not
be as good but will work as a substitute.
The
Magic of Coq de Leon
Coq
de Leon translated means Rooster from Leon, a province in Spain where the
breed originated many centuries ago. Although Coq de Leon has been forever
popular in Spain its popularity in the United States is limited due to it's
rarity. That’s unfortunate because Coq de Leon feathers have exceptional
qualities not found in traditional hackle. Their iridescent hues,
translucent appearance, stiff durable texture, and exceptional natural
waterproofing are unmatched by the best of traditional genetic hackle, or any
other tying materials.
A
relatively small area spreading along the mountains of northern Spain is the
source of the highest quality Coq de Leon available. Spaniards
traditionally believe that if Coq de Leon roosters are removed from this area
they will loose their magical powers, and there is merit to their belief.
Fertile eggs have been transported to other areas and hatched only to discover
the off springs lacked the exceptional feather quality found in their Spanish
parents. Even live roosters will soon loose their high quality when taken
outside the specific mountain range.
The
likely reason for this phenomenon is the rooster's high vulnerability to changes
in specific environmental factors of which they have adapted to over many
centuries. These factors may be the chemical and mineral content of food
and water and/or varying natural radiation in the uranium rich subsoil that
affects their renal glands, which in turn produce the exceptional
plumage.
 The
environmental factor may be a prerequisite for superior quality but another very
important factor is the Spaniards loyalty to traditional methods of rearing and
harvesting the feathers. They rear them in cool dry climates at least
2,300 feet above sea level and provide little protection during winter
months. They also avoid the negative effects of sunlight and confinement
by allowing them to free range (run loose) in large outdoor shaded areas. This may
result in losses to cold weather and predators but it’s considered necessary
to ensure top quality.
Only
one in ten eggs will produce a good quality Coq de Leon rooster, and because of
their sporadic genetic trait, you must hatch hundreds to get a variety of
colors. They will provide colors
to match most hatches but if you want unnatural colors you should use dyed traditional hackle.
Coq de Leon's natural waterproofing characteristic resist
dyes and attempts to dye will reduce the feather's special qualities.
Because of the
complexities of rearing Coq de Leon, it
is not feasible to kill and skin them. So the limited number of useable feathers are individually
plucked in a special way to reduce discomfort.
This tedious process is known as strepping and only takes place every three to
four months during the first quarter moon. It takes that long for the
feathers to develop and the traditional moon phase is believed to encourage
maximum growth. The first mature feathers, limpias, develop at 6 months of
age but they are of poor quality and are strepped only to allow growth of usable
feathers. The finest quality feathers come from roosters at least two
years old.
In
summary, you have to hatch hundreds of eggs for only a few roosters, rear them
in open shaded high altitude areas, wait two years to harvest a limited number
of feathers from each one, and then only three or four times a year.
Whew! Now you know why quality Coq de Leon is not normally found in
catalogs or fly shops, however, it is available.
Types
of Coq de Leon
 There are two basic types of
Coq de Leon, Pardo and Indio, based
mainly on pattern design. Each are divided into many subtypes according to their
Spanish color names.
Pardo type feathers normally have a
spotted to mottled design in shades of dark brown (appearing black) to light
brown (appearing beige), with various hues of yellow, orange, red, and
gold colors in between. For example: Pardo Aconchado has a yellowish brown circular mottled pattern and
Pardo Corzuno has a very dark brown fine mottled pattern.
Indio, on the other hand,
have either a plain or slightly spotted design and range in
shades of white to black, in shades of gray with hues of red, gold, silver, and
other colors in between. For example: Indio Negrisco is brilliant gray to black and Indio
Plateado is pearl like grayish silver.
Although the best quality of Pardo
Coq de Leon comes from the western mountains of Leon, the best quality Indio is
found in central Spain’s Cureno Valley and the Pirineos Mountains of eastern
Spain. I found the smaller sizes, used for Paco's Ugly Fly hackle, are mostly from the Pirineos Mountains.
The smaller hackle is very rare because for centuries the Spaniards bred for
large wet fly hackle.
 Both Pardo and Indio are ideal for tails, wet flies, caddis
and stone wings, etc., but the dry fly hackle for the Ugly Fly is tied with
hackle feathers of the Indio type. They are thin yet stiff enough to maintain their shape when abused. Their
brightness and translucence are also exceptional features.
Because they are so difficult to find you may substitute with a top quality
dry fly hackle. Because the Ugly Fly requires trimming hackle for blunt
ends, it is a good way to use those seldom used large feathers on your cape
(neck). For Whiting 100 type packaged feathers you should get a larger
size than needed. Size 10 would allow trimming for a size 14 or 16
fly.
Indio
feathers are not as popular as Pardo, probably because Pardo is more available
and more colorful, however, they are just as effective. In fact, used as
dry fly hackle, especially with the Ugly Fly,
they are more useful and effective than Pardo.
The
Ugly Fly
Information
and Instructions
By:
Paco Sorias and Ed Gallop
The Ugly Fly is not a specific fly pattern and,
in my opinion, not "ugly" as the name implies. It is a method of applying hackle to a
fly that sounds like it would be ugly.
It involves trimming oversized hackle to hook size (for blunt ends), cutting away the underside into an inverted "V"
shape (rest realistic in surface film), and it only has one wing (also realistic
above water). Yes... That sounds ugly, but ugly is only in the eyes of the
beholder. Trout love the Ugly Fly's realistic appearance and that is good
enough for me.
 Trimming hackle is not a new concept. It just never caught on because fly anglers don't like the
way it looks. But, take a moment and think about it. An insect's feet are not pointed like
untrimmed hackle and there are not tons of them bunched up under the thorax either.
The Ugly Fly's limited number of hackle wraps allows for fewer legs and the overlapping method of
applying it causes them to extend at different angles. This, and the inverted "V" shape, allows the
feet to contact the surface where they should, along the sides of the body and thorax.
The inverted "V" shape also causes the fly to land upright and ride low in the
water, just like the real insect.
The single wing concept is not unheard of either. I've been tying certain dun patterns like that for
years because when duns dry their wings they hold them upright like tiny little sailboats floating
on the surface. It may not be popular in the fly tying world but it works
great. Not that traditional two winged flies don't
work, they do, but so do single wings.
Lets look beyond appearance to the more physical concept of floatation. Contrary to what some
may think, trimmed hackle will not absorb water. In fact, it will float better because the blunt ends
don't penetrate the surface film as easily.
Any hackle will float longer when trimmed but the unique texture and natural waterproofing
quality of Coq de Leon hackle makes it float much better and longer than
traditional hackle. Floatants are not needed
and should be avoided because it will reduce it's translucent appearance of Coq
de Leon. Dying will also reduce
translucence and besides, dye won't take well due to the natural waterproofing characteristics.
Indio Coq de Leon is the Ugly Fly's magical ingredient. The specific wrapping and trimming is
the application that makes it work so great. Indio Coq de Leon is a very
rare feather from a specific type of Coq de Leon rooster found in Spain.
Unfortunately, it is not readily available so we suggest the stiffest and most
glossy traditional dry fly hackle as possible. Pardo type Coq de Leon is
available in our on-line store (link at bottom of page). Select at least
2 or 3 times oversized hackle to ensure the blunt tips after trimming. You can use the Ugly Fly method with
any oversized dry fly hackle. It may
not look or behave nearly as well as Indio Coq de Leon but it will perform
better than than the typical upright dry fly style.
Instructions
When
I was young I couldn't afford commercial hackle. I was limited to barnyard
roosters and often ran out of the smaller sized hackle. I started trimming
the plentiful oversized hackle to fit the fly. They didn't look that great
but the fish didn't seem to care. It seemed the trimmed hackle flies
floated longer and at times produced better.
After
getting to know other anglers who would inspect my flies, and was able to afford
commercial rooster necks, I converted back to the traditional way of tying dry
flies. It wasn't until my good friend, Paco Soria, showed me his Ugly Fly
method of tying that I realized the advantage of trimmed hackle. His
method took it even farther by cutting the hackle from the bottom of the fly
into an inverted V shape. All this came together as he explained why his
style performed better.
Paco
lived in Spain and was a Coq de Leon breeder so had an ample supply of
Indio. He sent me some and I was amazed at the stiff glossy fibers.
They were unlike any hackle I had ever seen before. After tying several
Ugly Flies with the Indio hackle I gave them a try. They looked more
realistic on the water and apparently the trout thought so too. I've
fished them in Virginia, North Caroline, Tennessee, and Pennsylvania with
excellent results in riffles and runs. They are my favorite dry fly style,
even with commercial genetic hackle. They may not be as effective as Indio
Coq de Leon but I found them to be more effective than traditional hackled style
flies.
I
tried in vain to improve Paco’s Ugly Fly method but he obviously perfected the
style before
introducing it to me. You can alter the Ugly’s body but I suggest you
follow Paco’s instructions precisely on the wing and hackle. Don’t
waste your feathers.
Dry
fly hackle usually comes from the neck or genetic saddles. Be sure to use
the best quality hackle you can afford. The more glossy and stiff the
better.
Step
1: Tie in the tail and body of the fly you wish to represent,
leaving the thread in the position pictured. The hackle's stiffness supports the fly on the surface better
and the glossy texture repels water better, thus floating longer with less scum,
build-up.
 Step
2: Position the feather brilliant side up with tip pointing to
left. Prepare the hackle by grasping the tip (used as the wing) between the left thumb and
finger. Be sure to grasp just enough fibers so the wing length will be
between 1½ to 2 times the hook gap.
With the other hand, grasp the fibers
below the wing and slide them toward the base. This will
flare out the fibers perpendicular to the stem.
Cut away
3 or 4 fibers from between the
wing and flared fibers (both sides) to allow room for thread when attaching to the
hook shank. Trim the hackle fibers evenly on both sides, the same length
or slightly shorter, than the wing is long.
Make
sure the trimmed hackle is sized to the hook.
Trimming
before wrapping is a lot easier than trimming afterwards.
Trim away top feather fibers as shown in bottom picture. Leave only
enough fibers on top side for 2 or 3 turns in front and 2 to 3 turns behind the
wing. This should be about 2 cm or 13/16" (inch) or a little more for
larger than size 16 hooks. This will allow for wraps toward rear to include
fibers from both sides of feather but return wraps forward will involve only
fibers on one side of feather. The reason for this is to reduce the amount of
disturbance to fibers on the return wraps, creating a better spread of fibers
for more realistic footprints.
Step
3: Tie in the wing tip by laying the hackle tip toward the rear
and in line with the hook. Wrap the thread snug behind the wing 2 or 3
times to support the wing upright and then forward to the head
position.
Note:
If your wing is different than the hackle then tie them in separate, but always
leave the base of the hackle in front of the wing. You can lightly splay
wings by tying the hackle stem through the middle.
Step
4. Wrap the hackle two times after it starts to flare, once in front of
the wing and once behind it.
Note:
I sometimes wrap hackle twice in front and back but it is not quite as realistic
on the water.
Step
5. Then maneuver it forward, overlapping and oscillating through the
previous wraps, once behind and once forward of the wing. The reason you overlap
hackle is to make the fibers stick out at angles to appear as legs along the
front of the body. This will not happen if you tie the hackle the traditional
way, or try to flare with thread.
Step
6. Tie off the hackle, clip, and whip finish. The hackle
should appear sparse and flared as pictured.
Step
7. View the fly from the front and trim the underside hackle to an
inverted "V" shape (see picture).
Note
1: You may find it easier to remove the fly from the vice and hold
it in your hand. The inverted "V" causes the remaining hackle to
rest in the surface film as tiny little insect feet.
Note
2: I usually place a drop of penetrating head cement or Zap-a-Gap on the
underside of the hackle wrap to give extra durability and extended life.
However, this may decrease it's floatability.
Now
comes the best part... Go fish the "Ugly Fly" and you'll see for yourself how realistic it
appears on the water. Not only will it fool the trout but it will fool you
too. Keep an eye on it because it will blend in with the naturals so well
that you loose track of it.
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